The Shrine of Santa Maria Incoronata del Carmine, known to all as Madonna delle Galline, is one of Pagani’s main places of worship. The Baroque building, located in the town center, holds a centuries-old deep-rooted devotion, linked to the famous folk festival and the particular legend of the finding of the sacred image.
In the center of Pagani stands a place of worship with a curious and evocative name, capable of immediately evoking the ancient peasant soul of the area: the Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Galline. Visiting this building means not only admiring a striking example of Baroque architecture, but getting in touch with one of the most alive and heartfelt religious and popular traditions of Campania, where devotion is inextricably intertwined with music, dance and the rhythms of the earth.
The history and legend at the origin of the cult
The origin of the shrine and its unique name dates back to the 16th century. Folk tradition has it that some chickens, persistently scratching around in the same spot in a vegetable garden, attracted the curiosity of the farmers. Digging in that spot, a small wooden tablet depicting Our Lady of Mount Carmel was found.
The finding was considered miraculous, and devotion grew rapidly, fueled by reports of graces received and unexplained healings attributed to Our Lady. These events led to the construction of a first chapel and later to the building of the present church, begun in the early 17th century to accommodate the growing number of pilgrims.
The architecture and spaces of the sanctuary
The exterior facade of the church is in a late Baroque style, sober but elegant. The elevation is tall and slender, embellished with columns and stucco decorations. Welcoming the faithful are two allegorical statues representing Modesty and Hope, and higher up on the entrance portal is a bas-relief depicting Our Lady of Mount Carmel with Child, seated on a cloud, in the act of being crowned by angels.
Crossing the entrance threshold, one enters a cozy and solemn room, characterized by a single nave punctuated by three arches on each side. The eye is immediately caught by the ceiling: a splendid wooden coffered ceiling embellished with 21 paintings depicting episodes from the life of the Virgin, angels and saints, giving the whole room a remarkable chromatic richness.
Continuing to the back of the church, attention focuses on the imposing high altar, a Baroque work that serves as a scenic backdrop to the life of the church. Along the sides of the nave are several side chapels, rich in decoration and 18th- and 19th-century canvases that testify to the devotion of local families and confraternities over the centuries.
The third chapel, which is larger than the others, holds the 18th-century statue of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, the same one that is carried in procession and received the solemn coronation in 1787 in recognition of the protection offered to the population.
Also worth mentioning at the entrance to the church, in the vestibule, is the organ with its ornate wooden chancel, dating from the late 18th century.
The Feast: the beating heart of tradition
One cannot fully understand the popular devotion to Our Lady of Mount Carmel without mentioning the “Feast of Our Lady of the Hens,” held every year on Sunday in Albis (the Sunday following Easter). On that occasion, the shrine becomes the centerpiece of an extraordinary collective celebration that embraces the entire town in one collective rite.
During the long procession, the statue of Our Lady parades through the streets of the city. The most well-known feature of the festival is the offering of birds (chickens, doves, turkeys) that the faithful give to Our Lady. Many of these animals are placed on the processional float and, according to tradition, remain there quietly without escaping. St. Alphonsus Maria de’Liguori also waited for the statue to pass in procession through the area that is now the square that bears his name, to donate a hen to the Virgin Mary as a sign of devotion.
During the days of the festival, the entire town of Pagani comes alive. In the courtyards, the toselli, rional altars where sacred images and products of the earth are displayed, and the incessant, hypnotic sound of the tammurriata resounds through the streets. Folk music accompanies traditional songs and dances from Friday until dawn on Monday, when the instruments are symbolically laid at the feet of the Virgin Mary, closing an event in which faith and folklore blend perfectly, creating a unique atmosphere of collective devotion and great popular participation.
